Fragrances Boutique

I’ve been craving spring for weeks now. The snow blanketing the landscape after yet another false promise of spring arriving at one point started to seem unbearable. I was desperate for the cool, green scent of new buds, the feeling of mild breeze on my bare legs, the splash of color amidst New York greyness…. These past few days have been wonderful: sunny, warm, caressing. I am keeping my fingers crossed that the spring is here at last. To celebrate the coming of spring and to be inspired by it, I would like to hold a prize draw. You can participate by sharing in the comments whatever tends to put you into a spring mood : wearing particular fragrances, experiencing other scents, reading certain books, watching movies, listening to movies, cooking, etc. In other words, tell me about anything that…

With all the new launch samples piling up on my desk, I instead find myself reflecting upon my old favorites. I have always admired the work of Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal, whose contributions range from the startling simpilicity and power of Eau du Fier, to the ethereal beauty of Eau de Ciel, and to the baroque richness of Songes. Un Matin d’Orage feels like yet another page in the Annick Goutal album, a rendition of gardenia that blends the starkness of photorealism with the mystery of abstract art. Given the difficulties in capturing the capricious beauty of gardenia in liquid form, it is not surprising that there are only a few successful renditions on the market: my favorites being, the gauzy gardenia of Marc Jacobs Perfume and the dark Velvet Gardenia by Tom Ford. For a gardenia lover, Un…

My new year has started with an Indian adventure, in which the romance of a wedding was punctuated by the typical stress of wedding planning and last minute arrangements. There were aspects that I nevered expected in my romantic vision: air travel mishaps, packs of wild dogs, naughty milk stealing monkeys. The tailors who insisted on leaving extra fabric were not always helpful — “but you cannot stay this thin after marriage, you will gain weight, how will you wear it then!” And the Indian concept of time as an infinitely stretchable resource required considerable patience. Yet, amidst all the unpredictable and sometimes amusing scenarios, everything turned out be to be even more splendid than we had anticipated.This was mostly due to our friends and family who actively participated in every part of the ritual and made our wedding special…

Dear Readers, Happy Holidays! I hope that 2010 will bring you lots of happiness, love and health. The next time we will meet here will be at the end of January upon my return from the month long India trip. Your answers to the Wedding Perfume Poll gave me lots of ideas. I promise to share the story of my wedding perfume on the pages of Bois de Jasmin. Meanwhile, I am finishing my packing and getting ready for the upcoming adventure. Once again, Happy Holidays and thank you for your constant support and interest in my articles! Photography © Bois de Jasmin. Peacock mosaic from The Kariye Camii in Istanbul.

The draw is closed and the winner is Laura! Thank you very much to everyone who participated. We received a range of very interesting responses, and they are going to be very helpful for my friend’s school project. For someone who loves fragrance, it is always interesting to find out why others wear perfume. My annual giveaway this year ties in with a study on the generation Y fragrance usage for an FIT consumer behavior class, and I am excited to hear your thoughts. Likewise, the prize for this giveaway is very special–tailored to your likes, exclusive (you will not find it in stores) and quite unique. Your answers will be submitted anonymously and your personal information shall not be shared in any way, shape or form. Giveaway Questions: How do you choose your fragrances and how many do you…

Only the travails of copyrighting a fragrance name can explain why Issey Miyake chose a nondescript a Scent by Issey Miyake to identify its most recent launch. Or perhaps the reason is really the “poetry of minimalism” mentioned in the press release. At any rate, a Scent by Issey Miyake disappointed me. Purportedly inspired by the smell of Japanese mountains, a Scent most strongly reminded me of Chanel Cristalle, albeit in its most attenuated form…. Created by the talented Firmenich perfumer Daphné Bugey, whose work for Le Labo has delighted me in the past, a Scent is a green floral, anchored by a transparent chypre base. The overall impression is of transparent verdancy, green citrus peel and sheer jasmine notes. The wet green floral accord is set against the base of white musk and limpid moss. The whole thing is…

Only the travails of copyrighting a fragrance name can explain why Issey Miyake chose a nondescript a Scent by Issey Miyake to identify its most recent launch. Or perhaps the reason is really the “poetry of minimalism” mentioned in the press release. At any rate, a Scent by Issey Miyake disappointed me. Purportedly inspired by the smell of Japanese mountains, a Scent most strongly reminded me of Chanel Cristalle, albeit in its most attenuated form…. Created by the talented Firmenich perfumer Daphné Bugey, whose work for Le Labo has delighted me in the past, a Scent is a green floral, anchored by a transparent chypre base. The overall impression is of transparent verdancy, green citrus peel and sheer jasmine notes. The wet green floral accord is set against the base of white musk and limpid moss. The whole thing is…

Autumn is one of my favorite seasons, given the melancholic connotations in the early dusks and fallen leaves. It is a time when I fully give in to nostalgia, imagining the cherry trees in the garden of my childhood turning russet, the first frost on the shaggy bushes of chrysanthemums near the wooden gate, and the plaintive cry of cranes crossing the overcast sky above the terracotta roof of our house. Thinking of these familiar images, I reach out for a compilation of Turgenev and gaze out of my window at the rows of slender maple trees dropping their crimson leaves into the puddles. This year is different in that I found myself with precious little time for nostalgic contemplations. I have started perfumery school full-time, which means that now I spend all of my day smelling which makes for…

Autumn is one of my favorite seasons, given the melancholic connotations in the early dusks and fallen leaves. It is a time when I fully give in to nostalgia, imagining the cherry trees in the garden of my childhood turning russet, the first frost on the shaggy bushes of chrysanthemums near the wooden gate, and the plaintive cry of cranes crossing the overcast sky above the terracotta roof of our house. Thinking of these familiar images, I reach out for a compilation of Turgenev and gaze out of my window at the rows of slender maple trees dropping their crimson leaves into the puddles. This year is different in that I found myself with precious little time for nostalgic contemplations. I have started perfumery school full-time, which means that now I spend all of my day smelling which makes for…

Fascinating glimpse into the creative process in perfumery (quoting famous perfumers such as Henri Robert, Andre Fraysse, Ernest Beaux and Edmond Roudnitska) excerpted from The Complete Technology Book on Herbal Perfumes & Cosmetics By H. Panda, p. 53-54. “Different perfumers react to different stimuli. Thus Henri Robert interviewed some years ago, mentioned that he always kept an odour-diary throughout his worldwide travels. On returning to his laboratory, with the aid of these notes, he would attempt to recreate in memory the various olfactive impressions that he had received: ’something suggested, for example, on a May morning on the Riviera or in the heat of a tropical afternoon, the impression arising from a market scene, a visit to the grand magazines or a concert.’ He might then decide to translate this or that olfactive reminiscence into a formula. … The place…

Fascinating glimpse into the creative process in perfumery (quoting famous perfumers such as Henri Robert, Andre Fraysse, Ernest Beaux and Edmond Roudnitska) excerpted from The Complete Technology Book on Herbal Perfumes & Cosmetics By H. Panda, p. 53-54. “Different perfumers react to different stimuli. Thus Henri Robert interviewed some years ago, mentioned that he always kept an odour-diary throughout his worldwide travels. On returning to his laboratory, with the aid of these notes, he would attempt to recreate in memory the various olfactive impressions that he had received: ’something suggested, for example, on a May morning on the Riviera or in the heat of a tropical afternoon, the impression arising from a market scene, a visit to the grand magazines or a concert.’ He might then decide to translate this or that olfactive reminiscence into a formula. … The place…

Few things remind me more of summer than basil. Its interplay of bitter peppery notes and sweet licorice-anise is made vivid by the dark, tangy verdancy, a perfect counterpoint. In perfumery, it is a classical herbal note, used in both masculine and feminine fragrances for its cooling aromatic effect. Paired with citrus, it makes for a scintillating sensation. Thus, Hermes in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena relies on the green note of basil to wrap its grapefruit accords in fragrances like Hermessence Rose Ikebana and Eau de Pamplemousse Rose. In fact, the combination of basil and lemon is a perfect one to appropriate for gastronomical explorations, whether one wishes to compose a simple salsa or a fish marinade. Furthermore, I would like to suggest another idea–a chilled drink that traces its roots to the Middle Eastern sherbet tradition. It is an essence…

Few things remind me more of summer than basil. Its interplay of bitter peppery notes and sweet licorice-anise is made vivid by the dark, tangy verdancy, a perfect counterpoint. In perfumery, it is a classical herbal note, used in both masculine and feminine fragrances for its cooling aromatic effect. Paired with citrus, it makes for a scintillating sensation. Thus, Hermes in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena relies on the green note of basil to wrap its grapefruit accords in fragrances like Hermessence Rose Ikebana and Eau de Pamplemousse Rose. In fact, the combination of basil and lemon is a perfect one to appropriate for gastronomical explorations, whether one wishes to compose a simple salsa or a fish marinade. Furthermore, I would like to suggest another idea–a chilled drink that traces its roots to the Middle Eastern sherbet tradition. It is an essence…

With the new features being available from typepad, I spent the last couple of weeks doing some much needed updates and clean ups. Also, I am offering a few new subscription options for you to follow the updates on Bois de Jasmin. The most novel one for me is the Twitter, which turned out to be a lot fun. Besides giving updates about new articles on Bois de Jasmin, I share about my studies in perfumery and daily scent discoveries. Subscribe via RSS Get Email Updates Follow me on Twitter

With the new features being available from typepad, I spent the last couple of weeks doing some much needed updates and clean ups. Also, I am offering a few new subscription options for you to follow the updates on Bois de Jasmin. The most novel one for me is the Twitter, which turned out to be a lot fun. Besides giving updates about new articles on Bois de Jasmin, I share about my studies in perfumery and daily scent discoveries. Subscribe via RSS Get Email Updates Follow me on Twitter

The refreshing crispness of classical cologne with its brilliant citrus-woods accord and the uncluttered simplicity of its composition can belie a mesmerizing richness. One only needs to experience Guerlain Eau de Cologne Imperiale or Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien to understand how alluring a cologne can be on a hot summer day. Or, for that matter, on a freezing winter morning when reminders of spring are so welcome. At the same time, even more interesting are modern interpretations seeking abstraction where classical tradition relied on nature. For this reason, Hermes Cologne Trio was an anticipated launch for me, including as it did the classical Eau d’Orange Verte as well as modern renditions such as Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and Eau de Gentiane Blanche. The original in the series, Eau de Cologne Verte/Eau d’Orange Verte, was created in 1979 by perfumer Francoise…

The refreshing crispness of classical cologne with its brilliant citrus-woods accord and the uncluttered simplicity of its composition can belie a mesmerizing richness. One only needs to experience Guerlain Eau de Cologne Imperiale or Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien to understand how alluring a cologne can be on a hot summer day. Or, for that matter, on a freezing winter morning when reminders of spring are so welcome. At the same time, even more interesting are modern interpretations seeking abstraction where classical tradition relied on nature. For this reason, Hermes Cologne Trio was an anticipated launch for me, including as it did the classical Eau d’Orange Verte as well as modern renditions such as Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and Eau de Gentiane Blanche. The original in the series, Eau de Cologne Verte/Eau d’Orange Verte, was created in 1979 by perfumer Francoise…

Perfume Prize Draw: One 50ml bottle of Estee Lauder Sensuous from my collection (completely full, save for a 5ml sample that was decanted out of it) and a 5ml sample of Serge Lutens fragrance of your choice. How to Enter Prize Draw: leave a comment explaining what fragrance you wore for your wedding and why you selected it. Or you can simply offer any musings you like on the subject of wedding scents, whether you are married or not. Each entry will be assigned a number, and a winner will be selected via a random number generator software. The comments section will be closed on at midnight on Sunday Monday. Prize Draw is closed. Thank you to all from the bottom of my heart for sharing your wonderful stories and musings! The lucky winner is Eric! Eric, please email me….

Perfume Prize Draw: One 50ml bottle of Estee Lauder Sensuous from my collection (completely full, save for a 5ml sample that was decanted out of it) and a 5ml sample of Serge Lutens fragrance of your choice. How to Enter Prize Draw: leave a comment explaining what fragrance you wore for your wedding and why you selected it. Or you can simply offer any musings you like on the subject of wedding scents, whether you are married or not. Each entry will be assigned a number, and a winner will be selected via a random number generator software. The comments section will be closed on at midnight on Sunday Monday. Prize Draw is closed. Thank you to all from the bottom of my heart for sharing your wonderful stories and musings! The lucky winner is Eric! Eric, please email me….

“Award-winning online fragrance resource Basenotes.net is celebrating its 10th birthday by launching a print version of its fragrance consumer website. The magazine will contain the news, reviews and interviews that have helped Basenotes.net become the long-standing website of choice amongst consumers and industry professionals alike and will also feature completely new and original content.” Congratulations to Grant! These are excellent and exciting news. Please read more about it in the Basenotes press release. Also, I would love to take this opportunity to say congratulations to Robin of Nowsmellthis for winning in the 9th Annual Basenotes Awards Best Blog category! Also, congratulations to Perfume Posse and 1000 Fragrances for the Silver and Bronze awards, respectivelly. I raise my champagne glass to all of you!

“Award-winning online fragrance resource Basenotes.net is celebrating its 10th birthday by launching a print version of its fragrance consumer website. The magazine will contain the news, reviews and interviews that have helped Basenotes.net become the long-standing website of choice amongst consumers and industry professionals alike and will also feature completely new and original content.” Congratulations to Grant! These are excellent and exciting news. Please read more about it in the Basenotes press release. Also, I would love to take this opportunity to say congratulations to Robin of Nowsmellthis for winning in the 9th Annual Basenotes Awards Best Blog category! Also, congratulations to Perfume Posse and 1000 Fragrances for the Silver and Bronze awards, respectivelly. I raise my champagne glass to all of you!

When zeera, or black cumin, hits hot oil, the scent that rises up is complex and rich. It hovers above the sizzling pan as a warm cloud, woody, crisp, with sweet clove and leather undertones. Bunium persicum or black cumin is a plant in the same wonderful family, the Apiaceae or Umbelliferae, that gives us carrot, parsley, cumin, coriander, dill, caraway, fennel, parsnip, celery, and Queen anne’s lace among others. Its black slender crescents are similar to both carraway and cumin, but the flavor bears only a slight resemblance to either. Lacking the intense animalic note of regular white cumin (Cuminum cyminum) and the musty darkness of caraway (Carum carvi), black cumin has an elegant flavor, possessing a hot sweetness and mineral chill. It has a natural affinity for meat, cruciferous vegetables, onions, garlic, and acidic vegetable-fruit like eggplant and…

When zeera, or black cumin, hits hot oil, the scent that rises up is complex and rich. It hovers above the sizzling pan as a warm cloud, woody, crisp, with sweet clove and leather undertones. Bunium persicum or black cumin is a plant in the same wonderful family, the Apiaceae or Umbelliferae, that gives us carrot, parsley, cumin, coriander, dill, caraway, fennel, parsnip, celery, and Queen anne’s lace among others. Its black slender crescents are similar to both carraway and cumin, but the flavor bears only a slight resemblance to either. Lacking the intense animalic note of regular white cumin (Cuminum cyminum) and the musty darkness of caraway (Carum carvi), black cumin has an elegant flavor, possessing a hot sweetness and mineral chill. It has a natural affinity for meat, cruciferous vegetables, onions, garlic, and acidic vegetable-fruit like eggplant and…